Nail Extensions 101: Different Techniques Explained

Nail Extensions 101: Different Techniques Explained

Dreaming of having long, elegant nails with elaborate nail art but not sure where to start? With so many types of nail extensions, products and trending designs out there, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. In this nail extensions 101 guide, we explore the different techniques and help you discover which option is best for you.

What’s the difference between nail extensions?

If you’re new to extensions, the difference between gel extensions vs acrylic systems can seem pretty opaque. Each method varies in application time, upkeep, durability and how they feel day to day.

Choosing the right technique, whether for yourself or your salon clients, comes down to your skill level, lifestyle and the results you’re after. Here’s a quick breakdown of the main nail extension techniques, along with their pros and cons.

Acrylic extensions

Acrylics are a classic and popular option at many salons. NSI Australia is the pioneer of the acrylic extension technique, so we know how to make this style work for virtually any client or at-home manicurist.

Acrylic extensions are formed by mixing a ratio of liquid (monomer) and acrylic powder (polymer) to create a bead which is then sculpted into a nail shape, using a form that helps to dictate the shape and length of the extension. They are sturdy, durable and long-lasting and can be infilled where they have grown out at the base of the nail for an ongoing lengthened manicure all year round. Acrylics’ thick, strong final shape is preferred by some but not by all, and it takes practice and expertise to mix the right ratio that is neither too dry to work with nor too wet to form a smooth final result.

Soft gel extensions

Soft gel tips are created using pre-formed tips, which are affixed and built up with a soft gel that is applied to the underside of the nail form. Then, they’re applied to the natural nail and cured under a UV nail lamp. Soft gel nails will add length and a new shape while lending strength to your natural nail.

If you like a short tip and don’t want to spend lots of time getting your nails done, soft gel extensions are a great option. They can cut almost the entire service time in half. For nail techs, using soft gels gives you more time to work on intricate freehand nail art or intricate patterns. However, please note that some people find soft gels less strong and durable than acrylic nails.

Builder gel nails

Builder in a Bottle (BIAB) gel nails are the goldilocks of gels. They’re easy to work with and build up much like soft nail gels, but they cure to a sturdier texture similar to hard gel nails. For at-home nail lovers trying out extensions for the first time, builder gel is a great, forgiving medium. BIAB nail extensions also tend to ‘self-level’ out, helping you build the desired nail apex and shape without having lumps or bumps in your final cured result.

Builder gel nails can be removed with acetone. If you don’t have tools like nail drills, you can still take them off safely at home before creating your new manicure. Dual forms will help you shape and build out the perfect forms with builder gels.

Hard gel extensions

Hard gel extensions may be difficult to work with for beginners but cures to a hard, durable texture more similar to acrylics. These can be used for natural nail overlays, tip and overlays, sculpting on a form and extremely long-lasting pedicures.

Hard gels often come in opaque true colours that give you the perfect opacity with ease. Some hard gels can have a strong odour, so make sure you choose a product like the Elite Sculptor LED/UV Gel System from NSI Australia that is HEMA-free and user-friendly, even for keen at-home amateurs.

Choosing the right type of nail extension for you

Here’s what to consider before you commit to your next set:

• Skill level — If you’re new to extensions, builder gels and soft gels are easier to master. Acrylics and hard gels take more practice and control.

• Durability — Acrylics and hard gels offer the strongest, longest-lasting finish. Builder gels are durable but slightly more flexible, while soft gels are best for shorter wear.

• Time — Short on time? Soft gel tips are the quickest to apply. Acrylics and hard gels can take longer to perfect.

• Removal — Soft gels and builder gels can usually be soaked off with acetone. Acrylics and hard gels often require more filing or a nail drill.

Do you need a quick application to save time with clients? Long-lasting durability for busy schedules? A flexible, lightweight feel for everyday wear? Or something that’s simple to soak off and refresh? Knowing your priorities will help you pick the best nail extension technique.

How long do nail extensions last?

It depends on the type of nail extension and how well you care for them. Acrylics and hard gels can last up to three to four weeks before needing an infill, while builder gels usually last two to three weeks. Soft gel tips tend to wear beautifully for two to three weeks but may need replacing sooner if you’re rough on your hands. 

Get the best nail salon supplies from NSI Australia

Now that you know the ins and outs of nail extensions, it’s time to bring those dream sets to life. At NSI Australia, you’ll find everything you need to create flawless nails, from professional-grade acrylic and gel kits to PolyGel nail extensions and dip powder nail extensions. 

Looking for trending shades? Our gel polishes come in every colour you can imagine, so you can create any look you’ve saved on Pinterest and Instagram. Explore our range and shop all the nail essentials, polishes and nail art tools to help you create manicures that wow every time.